HOW TO TEACH 
WOOD FINISHING 



PRANK HENRY SELI 




Class TT^^d 



Book 






Copyright IJ". 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSm 



HOW TO TEACH 

WOOD FINISHING 



BY 



FRANK HENRY SELDEN 

Author Of 

THE MECHANICAL SCIENCE SERIES 



ILLUSTRATED 



THE MAUDSLAY PRESS 

Valley City, - - North Dakota 



TT3a3 



Copyrigiited b>- 
Frank Hexry Selden 
1914 



MAV 16' 1914 



CI.A37.'!289 



\\\A'\^^ 



PREFACE 

Essentials Made Clear. In presenting this 
book to school shop teachers the author desires 
to make clear the fact that it is not expected to 
cover in an exhaustive manner the subject of 
wood finishing. Neither is it intended to answer 
all questions that might arise in simple problems 
of this class. Its object is to consider only those 
problems that properly belong to the school shop 
giving only such directions and information as are 
desirable for such work. In this manner it is 
hoped to avoid obscuring the needed in the need- 
less and thus encourage a more definite and con- 
tinuous study of wood finishing in the school. 
The author hopes to lessen greatly the common 
practice of guessing at methods because needed 
directions are buried in a mass of general infor- 
mation on all sorts of finishing problems. In 
order to use this book successfully it should be 
thoroly read in the order written, studied if 
necessary, until understood. 

Master Each Page. Beginning with this pre- 
face master each page in the order given. Teach- 
ers of shopwork or others wishing extensive for- 



4 WOOD FINISHING 

mulas or directions can find them in various large 
works on varnishing, staining, etc. 

Order of Topics. The contents are arranged 
in the order in which they should be studied. 
We have treated definite problems rather than given 
general directions without regard to any specific 
case. This makes possible very brief, specific, 
yet readily understood directions. These being 
fully comprehended, their application to a large 
variety of problems is obvious and easy. The 
table of contents affords an easy method of learn- 
ing where each method or style of finishing is 
treated. A well-arranged index facilitates the 
finding of any topic desired. 

Variety of Finishes. Altho specific problems 
are considered, and each type of finishing de- 
scribed as it would be applied to a specially suit- 
able article, almost any article mentioned might 
be finished with any of the finishes given. 

Materials. The various finishing materials are 
discussed in considering the processes in which 
they are first used. 



WOOD FINISHING 5 

CONTENTS 

Why Do Finishing - _ _ _ _ 7 

The Fundamentals ----- g 

Fool Proof Finishes - - - - - 11 

Preparation of Woods - - - - 13 

Finishing Cutting Board - - - - 16 

Sandpapering Finish _ _ _ _ 23 

Grinding Finish ------ 26 

Preparing Spruce and Fir - - - 31 

Finishing Bread Board - - - - 32 

Use of Fillers - - - - - - 33 

Fillers -------- 34 

Stains ------- 38 

Staining Bread Board - - - - 41 

Rottenstone ------ 4,2 

Finishing Book Rack - - - - 44 

Finishing Book Trough - - - 45 

Finishing Waste Paper Basket - - - 47 

V^arnishing ------ 50 

Where to Get Materials - - - - 52 

The Index ------ 53 



SUCCESS 

The basis of success in any line is to start 
right and take each step with definiteness and 
promptness. We should avoid haste, never pass- 
ing over a problem until mastered. We should 
be ever active, never stopping to go over again 
that which is already completed. 



WOOD FINISHING 



WHY DO FINISHING 

Several Reasons. There are several reasons 
why great care should be taken in the finishing of 
even the first pieces in woodwork. To finish the 
pieces gives an excuse for careful truing and 
smoothing. The finish adds much to the appear- 
ance of the work, probably much more in the es- 
timation of parents and friends than of the pu- 
pils as they are more interested in w^hat they 
learn than in the project. 

The chief reason, however, is that in doing the 
work of finishing the pupil learns several prin- 
ciples of large consequence in all his work and 
learns them quicker and better than he can by 
doing anything else. Some of these are very es- 
sential to success in all his shop w^ork and cannot 
be taught so effectively in any other part of the 
work. This is well understood by teachers of 
Mechanical Science. 

Educational Value. After a series of most 
careful tests the author is thoroly convinced of 
the great educational value resulting from correct 
methods of teaching shellacing of the simple 
pieces of the first lessons. Where success in using 
shellac is not attained it will be found that cor- 
rect methods have not been used. 



8 WOOD FINISHING 

THE FUNDAMENTALS 

Schools Differ. Sometimes we see work well 
finished, sometimes poorW finished. Sometimes 
nearly all the work of one school will be quite 
satisfactory, while that of another will be quite as 
discouraging. In attempting to get proper re- 
sults in any school the first step is to get a clear 
understanding of the fundamentals. If one exam- 
ines very closel}^ the work of some schools, he 
will notice a similarity in the defects of the work 
whether stained, varnished, painted or shellaced. 
The work of another school ma}^ be closely in- 
spected with the result that such defects as are 
found differ materially from those of the other 
school but likewise appear to arise from some one 
fundamental error. 

Master Fundamentals. Were we deahng with 
the problems of the commercial shop we should 
find these fundamentals so numerous and so 
greatly varied as to make our task of considering 
them a most serious one. In the school shop, 
however, these fundamentals that need to be con- 
sidered are not numerous, and an earnest teacher, 
willing to do the right, ought soon to master 
them and gain satisfactory results. The chief 
difficulty is that habits have been formed that are 
in the way of success, and in some cases when one 
discovers that to succeed certain fixed habits 



WOOD FINISHING 9 

must be changed the price is considered too high, 
and the old habit with the indifferent result is 
retained. In other cases some theory, long held 
sacred, is found to conflict, and rather than give 
up a theory we accept the consequent resulting 
inferior work. 

Depends on Previous Work. There can be 
little hope of helping any who are not freely will- 
ing to lay aside all previous notions that conflict 
with proper methods. These statements are made 
preparatory to stating a fact usually overlooked 
by shop teachers. It is this: Success in finish- 
ing DEPENDS PRIMARILY UPON THE FUNDAMENTAL 
HABITS OF WORK THAT HAVE BEEN DEVELOPED BY 
THE PUPILS BEFORE THEY ATTEMPT ANY SORT OF 

FINISHING. Unless this previous training has been 
correctly given there is no rule or method possible 
by which well-finished surfaces can be obtained. 
If this previous training has been accomplished, 
then the pupil in the fifth or sixth grade will use 
white shellac successfully as has often been demon- 
strated. In fact, wherever Mechanical Science is 
taught according to the author's methods, pupils 
will be found in their first year of shopwork 
getting results that are thought by old-line teach- 
ers to be utterly impossible for pupils of such 
grades. It is therefore very essential for us to 
realize from the very first that unless our pupils 
have been properly prepared to do this class of 



10 WOOD FINISHING 

finishing we will not get such results as the use of 
this book is expected to give. 

Preparation Necessary. Let us therefore con- 
sider briefly the preparation necessary for this 
work. First: The pupil should have learned to 
examine a surface or edge definitely and system- 
atically. This should have resulted from his 
study of planing. Second: He should have learned 
to go over his work systematically and thought- 
fully. By the time he is ready to use shellac he 
should have formed the habit of knowing exactly 
what his hands are accomplishing, not in a gener- 
al way, but definitely as to each movement. All 
rapid, thoughtless movements, so noticeable at 
first, should have ceased and the boy, tho in the 
fifth or sixth grade, should move slowly and 
thoughtfully yet accomplish much. Those not 
familiar with the Mechanical Science work should 
study carefully the text on woodwork for vise in 
the grades and also the teacher's handbook. 

True Surface. With the pupil properly pre- 
pared to take up the study of finishing there 
should be a true and smooth surface on which to 
apply the finish. No matter what grade is truing 
a surface it should be true as understood by a 
mechanic, and smooth, before attempt is made to 
finish it. There is absolutely no excuse for per- 
mitting pupils to attempt to finish work that has 
not been properly trued and smoothed. 



WOOD FINISHING 11 

Suitable Piece. There is also the further re- 
quirement that the piece to be finished should be 
of suitable shape for the study of finishing. If 
the pupil is to learn something, the conditions for 
learning should be suitable. To attempt to teach 
finishing on any piece that may come to hand is 
rank nonsense. It is therefore a matter of great 
importance that the problems of the shop should 
be selected with due consideration of finishing as 
well as of woodworking. 



'TOOL-PROOF" FINISHES 

What to Avoid. One of the difficulties met by 
most school shop teachers is that of keeping away 
from those finishing materials that are advertised 
as being so simple and easy to use as to avoid 
any possibility of improper use. We are told 
that if we will use such and such stains and coat- 
ings that we will get the very best results every 
time as they are of such a nature as to give 
proper results in the hands of any pupil. Some 
dealers go so far as to call their stains 'Tool- 
Proof." The use of one coat stains with wax 
finish is also entirely out of place for most of the 
school work. The use of pigment stains and wax 
should not be tolerated in any part of the school 
work. As teachers, wishing to do our pupils 



12 WOOD FINISHING 

some good, we should look upon all such prepar- 
ations and the firms who recommend them in the 
same manner as we should an arithmetic and the 
firm offering it with the guarantee that any fool 
could surely work any problem in it. 

Shellac Suitable. The one essential of every 
stain or finishing material of any kind for school 
use is that it will not give proper results unless 
used in the proper manner. Any tool or material 
that will permit of careless or thoughtless use 
should be eliminated from the school shop. The 
finishing, when properly carried on by the use of 
suitable materials, becomes one of the most valu- 
able parts of the school work. This is why 
shellac has no equal as a finish for woodwork in 
the fifth and sixth grades. That it can be used 
successfully has been so thoroly demonstrated as 
to leave no doubt of its successful use by every 
teacher who employs proper methods. 

Like Using a Key. To use ''Fool-Proof" fin- 
ishing materials is simply to admit that one does 
not know how to teach finishing and is willing to 
resort to such a subterfuge in order to make a 
showing of work rather than to teach the pupils. 
Any teacher who resorts to the use of such ma- 
terials or methods should be classed with teachers 
who permit their pupils to work problems by the 
use of a key and then exhibit the problems as 
showing the pupils' knowledge of the subject. 



WOOD FINISHING 13 

PREPARATION OF WOODS 

Different Classes. In preparing the surface of 
wood to receive the finish we must keep in mind 
that different woods require different treatment^ 
and also that for different finishing materials and 
different grades of finish there should be a differ- 
ent treatment of the wood surface. Probably the 
better way to learn and understand these prob- 
lems of the finishing room is to study the meth- 
ods of finishing various woods beginning with 
soft, even-textured woods such as basswood, soft 
pine, gumwood and pencil cedar. 

Following these studies we may study the 
finishing of the hard pines, fir, red cedar, spruce, 
cypress and similar woods. One can readily un- 
derstand that such woods as oak, ash, chestnut 
and mahogany cannot be finished as readily as 
those of more even texture. Rosewood may be 
considered an extreme of this class. 

Preparing Pine. Beginning with soft pine we 
have probably the easiest wood on which to begin 
our study of finishing. Being soft it is easily 
bruised or scratched and corners and edges may 
be ruined before we are aware of having touched 
them. Our first caution, therefore, is to preserve 
the corners and edges with the utmost care as 
explained in directions for sandpapering given in 



14 WOOD FINISHING 

corners and edges are the mark of the shiftless 
workman is not the only reason for being careful. 
After the finish is complete you will readily recog- 
nize the inferior appearance of such places by the 
indefinite and inartistic reflections of light from 
places that are not truly up to form. 

Removing Defects. Next to keeping the out- 
line in shape is the removal of minute surface de- 
fects. The Mechanical Science pupil should have 
no trouble with plane marks, for long before fin- 
ishing the cutting board the problem of planing 
should be solved and there should be no notice- 
able plane marks to remove. It is therefore only 
a matter of following the directions for sandpa- 
pering and reducing the surface to a velvety 
smoothness with substantially all noticeable 
scratches removed. 

Filling Defects. Sometimes there will be de- 
fects such as worm holes that need to be filled. 
This may be accomplished in several ways, one of 
which is to use a little coarse sawdust and glue, an- 
other is to use putty. Large holes should be plugged 
as directed in ''elementary cabinetwork." 

Putty. The ordinary putty of commerce is 
made of whiting and oil. Frequently some ma- 
terial is substituted for the whiting. This usual- 
ly results in a putty that will not stick to the 
wood. A much more durable putty is made b}^ 
mixing into ordinary putty from one-fourth to 



WOOD FINISHING 15 

one-half of white lead. An excellent way in 
which to keep putty from drying down hard is to 
put it into a tightly covered glass dish, usually a 
large-mouthed bottle. Packed tightly in such a 
place it will keep fairly well for years. 

For school use a very small amount of putty 
should last a year. Putty to use in bad joints 
should not be thought of, for in well conducted 
Mechanical Science classes there will be no bad 
joints. To fill an occasional worm hole, or cover 
the head of a brad is about the limit of use for 
putty in the school shop. 

In case the putty becomes too hard it may be 
softened by working into it a very small amount 
of linseed oil. It may be made by taking the dry 
whiting, sometimes called putty powder, and mix- 
ing in enough oil to give the desired consistency. 

Cold Water Putty. There are on the market 
several ''cold water" putties. Some of these are 
excellent and are to be preferred to whiting putty 
because they dry hard quicker and do not shrink 
in drying. For plugging worm holes, etc., they 
give better results than whiting and oil putty. 

Coloring Putty. Whiting putty may be col- 
ored by use of stains and also by use of common 
colors ground in oil. Some of the cold water 
putties are colored the same as whiting putty, 
some take the color of the stain used on the wood 
so perfectly as to require no special coloring. 



16 WOOD FINISHING 

Be sure in all work using whiting and oil putty 
to do the puttying several days before the varnish- 
ing so that the putty can have time to shrink, 
and then be w^orked down smooth. The surface 
should then be ready for the first coat of finish. 

FINISHING CUTTING BOARD 

Kind of Wood. This board, (Fig. 117, wood- 
work FOR THE grades), should be of pine, bass- 
wood, whitewood, or some other soft and even- 
grained wood. Before beginning the finishing the 
surface should have been sandpapered as directed. 
Care should be taken that the last sandpaper 
used is fine enough to remove all the readily 
visible scratches. No paper is fine enough not to 
scratch the surface. For finishing this board we 
use white shellac because long experience in 
school shopwork has demonstrated that it is 
by far the best material to use in the first lesson 
on finishing. 

Shellac. Shellac is procured from a tree of 
India. It has many uses other than those in the 
finishing room. There are two forms of shellac 
on the market. They are usually distinguished 
by the color. One is yellow and is sold in flakes. 
The other is white and is sold in large sticks or 
ropes very similar in both color and appearance 
to the large mass of white taffy candy as it is 
being pulled in the candy shop. 



WOOD FINISHING 17 

Purchasing Shellac. Shellac may be pur- 
chased pulverized ready for dissolving in alcohol. 
Either kind of shellac may be purchased in the 
dry form or in the form of a varnish-like liquid. 
The yellow shellac will keep in the dry flake form 
for a long time and may be dissolved in de- 
natured alcohol. This may be had from the lo- 
cal dealer. The white shellac quickly spoils so 
that it cannot be dissolved and therefore it 
should be purchased in the liquid form or else 
dissolved as soon as received. 

Preparing Shellac. The proportion of alcohol 
to shellac varies with different dealers. A good 
recipe is to use four pounds of shellac to one gal- 
lon of alcohol. This will be thick enough for al- 
most any use. It is very easily reduced, if re- 
quired, by adding more denatured alcohol. 

Do not use wood alcohol for this purpose, and 
do not plan to keep the white shellac for more 
than six months. It may be kept for several 
months in tin cans, but it is far better to keep it 
away from the light in glass cans or in stone 
jugs. All should be kept tightly corked. 

Experience with a large number of pupils and 
teachers has shown that some are apt to use it 
too thick on all their work and others will waste 
time and materials by using it too thin. No rule 
can be given that can be applied except by a 
good deal of careful study and experiment. 



18 



WOOD FINISHING 



Therefore, be ever on the alert to judge whether 
the coating appHed was correct or too thick or 
too thin. 

Shellacing. Place the bottle of shellac where 
it can be reached easily while holding the board 
so that the light will strike the surface and be 
reflected towards the eyes as shown in Fig.l. 
Dip the brush into the shellac so as to take up a 

considerable 
su r p 1 u s, and 
then remove 
that on the 
outside of the 
brush by wip- 
ing both sides 
on the mouth 
of the bottle. 
There is great 
danger of wip- 
ing the brush 
too much as 
well as too 
little. Unless 
sufficient shel- 
lac remains in 
^^^^^^^"■"^- the brush to 

flow out freely the coating will be uneven. Begin 
next to one edge, at a distance from the top end 
of the back surface. Lower the brush while 




Fi<. 



WOOD FINISHING 



19 



moving it towards the bottom end. As it moves 
towards the lower end press a Httle harder so 
that the same amount of shellac will leave the 
brush at each 
point. Contin- 
ue the stroke 
entirely out to 
the bottom 
end, Fig. 2. 
The common 
mistake in us- 
ing shellac is 
carelessness in 
going over the 
s urf ace a nd 
then attempt- 
ing to remedy 
the mistakes 
by going back 
over the places 
that have been 
missed or attempting to brush out thick places. 
The shellac dries so rapidly that it should be brushed 
onto the surface evenly the first time. If there is 
any occasion to go back over the freshly shellaced 
surface great care should be taken to brush the shel- 
lac out evenly at both ends and sides. At the fin- 
ishing of the stroke relieve the pressure enuf to a- 
void scraping the brush over the lower edge. Fol- 




Shellc 



20 



WOOD FINISHING 



low the down-stroke with an up-stroke, Fig. 3, be- 
ginning near the center and passing the brush 
entirely to the top end. Fig. 4, Page 21. 

Continue 

this process 
brushing the 
shellac first 
downward 
then up- 
ward each 
time cover- 
ing a strip 
a little less 
in width 
than the 
w i d t h of 
the brush. 
Always be 
sure to lap 
the strokes 

Fig. 3. Shellanng. ^^^^ ^^ ^^^ 

ends and at sides so that there will be no thin 
or uncovered spots. 

Holding Piece. Only by the most thotful, 
definite systematic work can the best finish be 
produced. The one feature that in school is 
likely to cause more trouble than any other is to 
get the pupil to hold the piece so that the surface 
and shellac are always clearly visible. 




WOOD FINISHING 



21 



Avoid Dust. After covering the entire surface 
in this manner the board may be laid in the 
bench drawer to dry, if the pupils have individu- 
al drawers. If not, it should at once be placed 
in the wall case away from the dust. Dust does 
not entirely ruin such a finish but it does injure 
it. Were it varnish a very little dust would en- 
tirely spoil it. 

E xam- 
ining Sur- 
face. The 
surface may 
be e X a m- 
inedbyhold- 
ing it up to 
the light in 
both hands 
and moving 
it about un- 
til the light 
has been re- 
flected from 
every por- 
tion to the 
eyes. 

Fig. 4. Shellacing. 

Shellacing Edges. After the shellac on the 
back surface has dried, which will usually require 
but an hour or so, the edges and second or front 




22 WOOD FINISHING 

side should be shellaced. Begm by shellacing the 
farther end, next the left hand edge, then the 
nearer end. In order to apply the shellac 
to an edge the brush should be turned edge- 
wise to the length of the edge and should 
be moved very carefully to avoid working 
the shellac over onto the side. Any streak of 
shellac on the side at the edge will add a 
great deal to the labor of finishing and therefore 
great care should be taken in shellacing the edges. 

Shellacing Second Side. After the two ends 
and edge are shellaced, proceed to the front side, 
going over it systematically, beginning at the left 
hand edge. The right hand edge is the last sur- 
face to receive the shellac. By this time the 
young finisher should begin to notice carefully 
the effect of each stroke of the brush. He 
should also notice the effect of leaving more or 
less shellac on the brush and the need of care- 
fully wiping the end of the brush on the edge of the 
bottle. The piece should now be laid away until 
returning to class next day. It should then be 
sandpapered as described under the next topic 
"sandpapering finish." 

These directions for shellacing the cutting 
board apply to all simple one-piece objects made 
of close even-grained wood. For directions for 
shellacing taborets, tables and similar objects, 



WOOD FINISHING 



23 



SANDPAPERING FINISH 
Sandpapering Finish. The cutting board or 
some similar one-piece object made of close, even- 
grained wood should be the first on which to 
study sandpapering a finish. Before attempting to 
do finishing one should have thoroly mastered 
sandpapering of plain wood surfaces, both with 
the block and without. It will then be readily 
understood 
that no block 
should be used 
in sandpaper- 
ing a finish. 

H old ing 
Piece. Take 
a p i e c e of 
sandpaper, 
not more than 
one-fourth 
sheet, in the 
hand as shown 
in Fig. 5 and 
go over the 
surface, light- 
ly at first and 
always parallel 
with the grain. Always hold the piece so 
that the light is reflected directly to the eyes 
as shown. Gradually increase the pressure upon 




Fig. 5. Sandpapering 



24 WOOD FINISHING 

the paper until it cuts as rapidly as it can with- 
out heating and pulling up the shellac. It will soon 
be noticed that directly under the places where the 
most pressure is applied the sand paper rapidly fills 
with the shellac. It is therefore necessary frequent- 
ly to change the position of the fingers so that 
every part of the sandpaper will be used equally. 

Rubbing Thick Places. After a very little rub- 
bing it will be noticed that some parts of the sur- 
face are much rougher than others. This neces- 
sitates the careful observation of the work and 
extra rubbing over the thick or rough places. 
This is really the important and difficult part of 
the process, but should be readily learned if one 
has first learned to use sandpaper on the unfin- 
ished surface. 

Using Scraper on Finish. Dust, even dirt, in 
the atmosphere of the school shop is usually un- 
avoidable and therefore some will find its resting 
place on the freshly shellaced surfaces. In at- 
tempting to smooth surfaces in which dust has 
settled and become embedded it will be quite 
difficult to smooth down the dust and the small 
raised spot of finish about it without cutting 
away too much of the finish on the adjoining sur- 
face. The same is true of exceptionally thick 
spots of finish. It is therefore necessary to re- 
move these exceptionalh^ high places by some 
means that will not hit the level surface. This 



WOOD FINISHING 25 

may be accomplished by using a carefully fitted 
scraper, working very lightly, usually with one 
hand only and always holding the piece to the 
light as in applying the finish or in sandpapering. 

Always use a newly sharpened scraper and be 
sure that the burr is keen and even, otherwise it 
will leave scratches on the finish. Hold the 
scraper as nearly vertical as it can be made to 
cut. Do not attempt to do the work of the 
sandpaper with the scraper. Usually a very 
little scraping of the finish is sufficient. 

Sandpapering Near Edges. The most difficult 
places to work down smooth are those near the 
ends that have been made exceptionally rough b}^ 
carelessness in applying the shellac. As soon as 
these are discovered they should be rubbed down. 
This should be done before rubbing the central part 
because by so doing it will be more easily accom- 
plished and the final surface will be much better. 
Frequently the sandpaper can be used to better 
advantage if it is torn into one-eighth sheet size 
pieces. Sometimes even smaller pieces are ad- 
visable. In every case the paper should be as 
carefully torn as in first tearing the sheet and it 
should always be used folded double. 

Sandpapering Edges. After rubbing this side 
to a smooth surface, turn to the opposite side and 
smooth it. After smoothing the sides, smooth 
the ends and edges, being careful to observe the 



26 WOOD FINISHING 

same directions for using the sandpaper so as to 
avoid round corners as in the sandpapering of the 
wood before shellacing. See '^voodavork for 
THE GRADES," Figures 123 to 127. 

Shellacing, Second Coat. After all surfaces 
and edges have been worked down smooth and 
even, wipe the board thoroly and apply another 
coat of shellac to the better surface only. Should 
the piece be chamfered, the ends and edges 
should be shellaced. But one surface is full}^ 
finished as the back side is to be used for cutting 
upon and therefore should not be highly finished. 

Repeat the process of shellacing and rubbing 
down with sandpaper until the surface is well and 
evenly covered with shellac. This usually will 
require two or three coats. Then after the sand- 
papering use pumice stone as directed under the 
side head, ''using pumice stone." 

GRINDING FINISH 

Pumice Stone. After the 00 sandpaper has 
been used on the second or third coat of shellac 
the surface will yet be far from smooth. On the 
first coats the sandpaper will be sufficient as it 
will leave the surface smooth enough to receive 
the succeeding coat of finish, but as the finish 
nears completion more care must be taken to 
have a smooth surface to receive the coating and 



WOOD FINISHING 27 

the final rubbing down must be far better than 
can be accompUshed with 00 sandpaper. It is 
therefore necessary to prepare the work to re- 
ceive the last coat of shellac or varnish by rub- 
bing down the finish with pumice stone. The 
same process is repeated on the last coating. 

Grades of Pumice Stone. Pumice stone may 
be obtained in three grades of powdered stone 
and also in bricks. For school use only the 
powdered is required. A convenient form in 
which to purchase it is in ten pound packages. 
The coarsest is marked "F;' the finest ^TFF". 
Which grade to use must be learned by use and 
experiment. The coarser the grade the faster it 
will cut, but if too coarse it will leave unsightly 
scratches in the finish that cannot be removed. 
The beginner may well use ^^FF" for preparing 
the surface for the last coat and 'TFF" for rub- 
bing the last coat. This may be considered as 
being on the safe side. 

Rubbing Oil. By using the powdered pumice 
stone dry little could be accomplished. Some 
liquid must be used to make it work freely. Al- 
most any liquid that will not dissolve the finish 
may be used. Water is no doubt the cheapest. 
Cheap oils of various sorts are also used. It is 
well for the shop teacher to experiment with such 
as are at hand. There is also to be had an oil 
especially for this purpose called '^rubbing oil." 



28 WOOD FINISHING 

It is a thin and rather inexpensive oil, and for 
most schools its use will be found preferable to 
that of water or other oils. Common machine 
oil thinned with kerosene can be used when but 
little is needed and no other is at hand. 

Oil Cans. The rubbing oils are best used 
from a small machine oiler. To avoid the trouble 
that follows confusion with the cans used at the 
oilstones the can containing the rubbing oil may 
be painted black. Black shellac can be used for 
this purpose. 

Using Pumice Stone. Take a small wad of 
cotton waste or a small piece of rubbing felt and 
pour a little oil upon it. Dip this into the box of 
pumice stone, or sprinkle a little of the powder on 
the finish. Rub over the entire surface using a 
circular motion. After working in this manner 
for a short time, wipe the surface clean and ex- 
amine it. Look for the thick or rough places. 
Take more oil and powder and repeat the rub- 
bing, using the circular motion unless the nature 
of the high places requires a different movement. 
After the first inspection one should be able to 
see fairly well where rubbing is required without 
having to clean off the oil and powder. Too fre- 
quent cleaning of the surface is a waste of both 
time and material. 

The process of grinding with pumice stone fol- 
lows so closely in principles that of using sand- 



WOOD FINISHING 29 

paper that one who has learned to use sandpaper 
should have little difficulty in using pumice stone. 

This is especially true in regard to keeping 
edges sharp, using the waste or felt so it will not 
overhang the corners or chamfer, and in working 
down the high spots along the corners before 
completing the central part of the surface. If the 
sandpapering has not been thoroly mastered the 
directions should be reviewed while using the 
pumice stone. 

Listen for Grinding. If the oil and pumice 
stone are in proper quantities the grinding should 
be distinctly heard. The proper proportioning of 
the two ingredients to form a thick paste is a 
matter of chief importance and can be learned 
only by experience. By listening for the sound 
of grinding and changing the proportion to make 
this sound as distinct as possible will soon result 
in the proper use of the material. It also must 
be borne in mind that pumice stone is rapidly 
used up. More powder and more oil must be 
added frequently. 

How Long to Grind. The grinding should be 
continued until the shellac or varnish is cut to a 
smooth mirror-like surface, unless by so doing it 
will be cut dow^n too close to the wood. If the 
finish is not thick enough to permit of being 
ground down to such a smooth surface it should 
be worked to as smooth a surface as will be safe 



30 WOOD FINISHING 

without cutting thru to the wood. It then should 
be thoroly cleaned of all oil and powder and have an- 
other coat of finish applied. Often it is necessary 
to do a large part of the rubbing parallel with 
the grain as in sandpapering. 

Number of Coats. This applying of finish 
and rubbing down should be continued until the 
desired smoothness of surface is obtained. If 
shellac is used it may require several repetitions 
of the rubbing and shellacing. Varnish usually 
has a greater body than the shellac and therefore 
does not usually require so many applications. 
Do not make the mistake of leaving too thick a 
coating of finish after the first sandpapering or 
first grinding. See that every part is as thin as 
it can be made without cutting thru before ap- 
plying another coat. 

Grinding Two Coats at Once. After one has 
become expert in applying and rubbing finish two 
or more coats may be applied for each sandpa- 
pering or grinding. This will save time and yet 
result in a good finish, if the workman is suffi- 
ciently skilled to apply the coats evenly. This 
should not be attempted until one has had con- 
siderable experience in working one coat at a 
time. It is sometimes advisable in finishing 
open-grained woods to apply a part of the shellac 
across the grain. The last coat should always 
be applied parallel with the grain. 



WOOD FINISHING 31 

PREPARING SPRUCE AND FIR 

Hard and Soft-Grained Woods. Next to the 
smooth surfaced woods are those that are in one 
sense smooth, yet difficult to finish because they 
are made up of two distinctly different sorts of 
grain, one hard and smooth, the other very soft 
and smooth. 

Difficulties in Finishing. These two kinds of 
grain do not smooth or finish alike. The first ap- 
pearance of difficulty in working such wood is in 
planing. The plane must be sharp or it will not 
cut the two grains to an even surface. Some of 
these woods, such as fir, spruce and Washington 
red cedar have such a soft grain that it is ex- 
tremely difficult to sandpaper the surface without 
cutting away the soft grain much faster than the 
other and thus produce a peculiar roughness that 
makes good finishing impossible. 

Smoothing. There are various ways of over- 
coming this difficulty, among these is the one 
that should never be omitted, that of taking a 
finishing cut over the surface with a very sharp 
plane. If a scraper is to be used it also should 
be very sharp. On all such surfaces but little 
sandpapering should be done. Sometimes the 
better method is to go over the surface with a 
coat of liquid filler or shellac, permitting this 
coat to dry hard and thus harden the soft grain. 



32 WOOD FINISHING 

After this it will be found much easier to use 
either the scraper or sandpaper. 

Staining Before Shellacing. If the piece is 
to be stained it will be necessary to determine 
whether stain should be used before or after this 
hardening coating. In some cases stain should be 
applied both before and after. It will be noticed 
that after the surface is shellaced stains are not as 
readily absorbed and therefore will not give the 
same tone of color as when applied before the 
shellac. 

After a surface is produced on these hard and 
soft-grained woods in this manner they may be 
finished the same as basswood, etc., of the first 
group. See ''finishing cutting board". 

FINISHING BREAD BOARD 

Kind of Wood. Should the bread board, 
(Fig. 143 ''woodwork for the grades,") be of 
pine, basswood or similar close, even-grained wood 
it may be finished in the same manner as the 
cutting board. We will therefore consider only 
the finishing of such bread boards as are made of 
oak, mahogany or similar open-grained woods. 

Preparing Oak. To prepare properly oak and 
other open-grained woods for finishing in the best 
manner is a somewhat difficult matter. The first 
difficulty is to produce an even surface. It is so 



WOOD FINISHING 33 

easy to tear out spots of crooked grain or to 
leave bunches in the hard places and holes in the 
soft ones. To avoid this always finish planing 
with a sharp plane and then follow carefully the 
directions for scraping as given in ''woodwork 
FOR THE GRADES." The illustration showing how 
to hold the scraper at different angles should be 
thoroly studied. 

Grade of Sandpaper. Often after careful plan- 
ing and scraping the surface is ruined by sand- 
papering. Too fine a paper is used and then to 
make it ''take hold" it is pressed hard on the 
surface with the result that the soft grain is liter- 
ally dug out leaving the hard grain above the 
soft grain the same as on a weather-beaten board. 

USE OF FILLERS 

Filling the Grain. Even the best of care in 
sandpapering cannot make a perfect surface be- 
cause the wood is full of holes, pores, and these 
must be filled in order to provide the smooth, 
tight surface necessary to sustain a polish or 
varnish finish. It is possible to fill these pores 
by applying many coats of shellac or varnish, and 
each time rubbing off most of that which adheres 
to the surface. This, however, would be a tedi- 
ous and wasteful process. The better way is to 
apply some material that will fill the pores but 
not adhere to the surface. 



34 WOOD FINISHING 



FILLERS 



Paste Fillers. The usual method of fiUing 
these open grains is by use of what is known as 
paste fillers. These may be obtained at any 
paint store prepared for use except that they re- 
quire thinning. Usually directions for use will be 
found upon the label or wrapper. The process of 
using them can be stated in a few words and ap- 
pears to be quite simple, yet the best results are 
usually not obtained except by the experienced 
finisher. By having clearly in mind what is to be 
accomplished by the filler and then proceeding 
carefully, noting the effect of each part of the 
work, one should soon be able to do fairly good 
filling on any kind of wood. 

Preparing Filler. On opening the can the fill- 
er usually will be found settled and quite hard. 
Perhaps it can be softened by stirring into it the 
liquid, probably oil, found on top. If not, re- 
move a portion of the mass to another suitable 
receptacle and pour over it enough oil or tur- 
pentine to make a thin, cream-like liquid when 
thoroly stirred. 

Thinning Filler. If the wood to be filled is 
to retain its natural color, use for the thinner tur- 
pentine, otherwise linseed oil may be used, also a 
little drier, a liquid preparation which is used in 
paints, fillers, etc., to cause them to dry more 



WOOD FINISHING 35 

rapidly. Where a variety of small pieces are to 
be filled as in the school shop it is probably bet- 
ter to use an all turpentine filler. 

Linseed Oil. This is of two kinds, raw and 
boiled. If space and funds are hmited, only the 
boiled oil should be used. This is a little thicker 
and dries a little quicker than the raw oil. It 
can be used for all the purposes of the school shop. 

Turpentine. Only the pure turpentine should 
be used in the school shop. For the ordinary 
school shop it may be purchased a gallon at a 
time. It is highly inflammable and should be 
kept in a place secure from heat or liability of 
fire or electric sparks. The place in which it is. 
kept should be always clean of dirt or dust, and 
cotton waste, cloths or similar materials should 
not be kept in the same box or cupboard. If it 
can be arranged, it should be kept in a metallic 
case or asbestos or sheet metal lined cabinet. 
Both alcohol and linseed oil should be kept in 
similar cabinets. 

Coloring Fillers. The filler may be colored by 
use of ordinary pigments such as rose lake, burn^t 
sienna, burnt umber, etc. These are most easily 
used when ground in oil and may be purchased 
in small cans. 

Colors in Oil. Fig. 6 tells better than words 
how^ such colors are put up. Half pound and 
pound tins are large enough quantities to pur- 



36 WOOD FINISHING 

chase at one time. Few of these colors are re- 
quired. The usual hst contains only Burnt 
Umber, Burnt Sienna and Rose Lake. To these 
may be added for variety such other colors as 
circumstances may suggest. The cans should be 
kept as tightly closed as possible and the pig- 
ment should be kept covered with oil or turpen- 
tine, either of which may be used for thinning. 
Filling. After the filler has been thoroly 




^" MAUDSLAY f'^^'l "MAldslaY PRf^^ Mi , . , ^^ .^^fo 

5S E " LA K £ ; '^JURKE Y UMBe^ '^^JT aI, A^^^ 

.V ^! .HI H Dakota'- 



NoRlHf^' 



fig. 6. Colors in Tin Cans 

mixed, thinned and colored, if required, it should 
be applied with a stiff brush. Do not try to 
paint it over the surface as one would apply a 
coat of paint, but rather rub it onto and into the 
surface, rubbing in all directions and leaving but 
little on the surface. 

Rubbing Filler. Go over a small surface in 
this manner and then wait until the filler be- 
comes so dry as to rub up on the surface in a 



WOOD FINISHING 37 

thick paste. With a bit of waste or cloth rub 
over the surface, varying the movement from 
crosswise to circular and lengthwise, having in 
mind that the object is to get as much as possible 
of the filler into the pores of the wood. 

Cleaning Surface. Next rub all the surplus 
filler off the surface, finishing by rubbing lightly 
but thoroly with clean waste. Be very careful 
that the filler in the pores is not rubbed out. 
This process of filling should produce a surface 
suitable for shellacing or varnishing. 

Sandpapering Filler. After the filler has thor- 
oly dried the surface should be gone over lightly 
with sandpaper. Be careful to rub down any 
rough places or spots of filler that have not been 
properly cleaned from the surface. Sometimes 
the filling process will raise the grain of the wood. 
In that case considerable sandpapering will be 
required for all the raised grain must be worked 
down smooth. See topic ''raising the grain." 

Staining Over Filler. Before the shellac is 
applied a stain may be used, either to intensify the 
color used in the filler, or if the filler has been left 
white, to do all the coloring after the filling has 
been done. Often all the color is given by the filler, 
thus avoiding the expense and time of a special 
coat of stain. When stains are used they should 
be selected and applied as directed in the follow- 
ing chapter on stains. 



38 WOOD FINISHING 

STAINS 

Kinds of Stains. There are four kinds of 
stains known to painters and varnishers. They 
are: First, Oil Stains; Second, Water Stains; 
Third, Spirit Stains; and Fourth, Chemical Stains. 

Oil Stains. These are similar to a colored 
varnish, are difficult to apply satisfactorily, and 
do not give a high quality of finish. They are 
more in the nature of a paint upon the surface of 
the wood than a stain to enter and color the 
wood fibres. They are not suitable for school use 
and should be avoided. On the other hand, altho 
very difficult for the beginner to apply, one who 
has learned the principles of applying finishes as 
taught in the use of shellac should, with a little 
practice, be able to follow the directions for ap- 
plying oil stains; the difficulty is to apply them 
evenly so as to avoid thin spots and laps. 

Water Stains. These are one kind of chemi- 
cal stains, as they depend to some extent upon 
the action of the stain upon the wood fibres. 
They also act as a dye or coloring matter. Such 
stains are produced in a very great variety of 
shades and of a great variety of materials. Some 
give good results and are much used while others 
give hfeless, mud-like coatings. 

The only safe way is to purchase only samples 
or very small quantities at first. After finding 



WOOD FINISHING 39 

those that are suitable, be cautious about chang- 
ing. Directions for use will usually be found on 
the package. 

Mixing Water Stains. For most water stains 
the powder is mixed with water and then applied 
with a brush or cloth. Almost any way by which 
the surface of the wood is wet thoroly and evenly 
all over will give as good results as the stain is 
capable of producing. With some water stains it 
makes little difference whether the liquid is ap- 
phed evenly if it is thoroly wiped before it dries. 

Sandpapering Water Stains. Such stains raise 
the grain and therefore the wood must be well 
sandpapered after the stain is thoroly dry. This 
will usually necessitate another application of the 
stain and another going over with sandpaper. 
The grain may be raised before applying the 
stain. See topic "raising the grain." 

Finishing After Staining. After the desired 
color has been obtained and the wood made 
smooth, the finish may be completed by applying 
a coating of wax as described under the topic 
'Vax finishing" or it may be covered by some- 
thing in the nature of a varnish, such as shellac, 
some of the commercial substitutes for shellac, or 
a varnish. As a matter of economy, varnish 
should be preceded by a paste or liquid filler. 

Spirit Stains. This class of stains is used very 
largely as well as the water stains. They consist 



40 WOOD FINISHING 

of a liquid and a coloring matter mixed ready for 
use. They dry quickly. The essential qualities 
of durability, brilliance or ''life" vary greatly 
with different makes and with different colors of 
the same brand. 

Selecting Stains. It is not safe to buy these 
stains on the recommendation of dealers or of 
practical workmen. The requirements of the 
school are such that ordinary commercial require- 
ments are not a guide for selection. The com- 
mercial shop might use a stain because it is a few 
cents cheaper per gallon, or because it dries two 
or three hours sooner. In the school shop where 
each project requires such a small amount the 
quality should not be sacrificed to price. In dry- 
ing no stain will dry in time to receive the next 
coating the same class period and therefore if it 
dries in time for the recitation of the succeeding 
day it is quite sufficient. The one matter of 
quality should control. 

This is essential not simply for the sake of the 
appearance of the completed finish, but because 
in putting on and working with a high grade 
finish there is much more for a pupil to learn. 
The clear high quality stain offers an opportunity 
for care in working it into the surface that is not 
possible with the dull, muddy preparations. 
Avoid the use of such colors as cover up the 
grain and natural beauties of the wood. 



WOOD FINISHING 41 

Use Few Colors. Do not attempt to use a 
large variety of colors. A few thoroly studied are 
far better than many daubed on without a proper 
working down to bring out their best quality. 

Black Shellac. A very fine color for some 
work may be obtained by mixing into shellac 
ordinary lampblack. This will give a dead black 
finish resembling ebony. It may be brightened 
by rubbing down smooth and applying a thin 
coat of white shellac. 

STAINING BREAD BOARD 

Applying Stain. For our bread board that has 
been filled, we will use a spirit stain. If it is of 
mahogany we may use a dark mahogany stain. 
Apply it with a stiff brush, rubbing it on thoroly 
and then wipe off with cotton waste or old cloth. 
Be very particular to leave the surface an even 
color free from streaks or spots of unwiped stain. 
Sometimes it is well to stain but one side of the 
bread board so as to show the effect of staining. 

Finishing After Staining. After the stain has 
become thoroly dry, which should require not 
more than one day, it may be carefully looked 
over and sandpapered lightly if necessary. Fol- 
lowing this, the bread board should be finished in 
white shellac the same as the cutting board. 
This should result in a much better finish than 



42 WOOD FINISHING 

that of the cutting board. Therefore after the 
shellacing has been completed and the last coat 
rubbed down with pumice stone, a final polish 
may be given the surface by use of rottenstone. 

ROTTENSTONE 

When to Use Rottenstone. Unless the wood 
is very carefully smoothed and the shellac or 
varnish has practically a perfect surface the use 
of rottenstone will only increase the apparent 
roughness. If the finish is sufficiently perfect to 
permit of a high polish the use of rottenstone 
and oil will give the finishing touch of beauty and 
gloss that for most work is quite desirable. 
There is but one grade of rottenstone. It is to 
be obtained in either powdered form or chunks. 
For school use always purchase the powdered 
rottenstone. Only a small amount will be re- 
quired. 

Using Rottenstone. In using rottenstone 
proceed the same as in using pumice stone. 
Finish by rubbing carefully parallel with the 
grain. Use great care to keep it free from dirt or 
dust and avoid using waste or pads that have 
been used with pumice stone. This should com- 
plete the finish and leave the surface smooth and 
mirror-like. Avoid placing anything against such 
a surface for several days as the rubbing has a 
tendency to soften the finish. 



WOOD FINISHING 43 

FINISHING A TABORET 

Preliminary Study. In many ways finishing a 
taboret (Figures 180 and 192, 'Woodwork for 
THE grades") is the same as finishing a cutting 
board or bread board. Therefore all the direc- 
tions given for those problems should be thoroly 
mastered before attempting a taboret. 

Finishing in Angles. The top of the taboret 
may be finished before being fastened to the rails. 
In that case it would be finished the same as the 
breadboard, except, being larger, a little more 
care would be necessary. In finishing the rails 
and legs we meet with the difficulty of working 
on surfaces that join other surfaces so as to form 
angles that are not easily reached. If we have 
done our previous work well this new problem 
will be readily solved. The chief factor is to 
apply the finish to the angle first and then work 
out towards the center of the rail, being careful 
to have the shellac or other material spread 
evenly. Remember that any surplus finish close 
up in the angle is very difficult to rub down 
when dry, therefore, wipe the brush thoroly and go 
back to the angles and clean them out at once. 

Proceed Systematically. Go over the work 
systematically so that no parts will be overlooked. 
Begin at a point that will permit of handling the 
frame until the last surface has been covered. In 



44 WOOD FINISHING 

sandpapering or rubbing with pumice stone, work 
into the angles first and then out upon the large 
surfaces. Sometimes the pumice stone can be 
worked in the angles by using a pine stick or 
paddle instead of the usual pad or cotton waste. 
Finishing Before Putting Together. The fin- 
ishing of Fig. 195 ''woodwork for the grades" 
may differ from that of Figures 180 and 192 by 
being all done while the legs are separated from 
both the rails and shelf, thus avoiding finishing 
in angles. There are many other projects illus- 
trated in ''wooDW^ORK FOR THE GRADES" that are 
especially desirable for school shopwork because 
they may be finished entirely before putting to- 
gether. Work planned in this manner may be 
very highly finished or polished by pupils in the 
seventh or eighth grades. All of these articles 
may be polished with rottenstone. Several of 
the projects in ''elementary cabinetwork" may 
be finished before assembling. 

FINISHING BOOK RACK 

Selecting Wood. This book rack, (Fig. 209, 
"woodwork for the GRADES,") may be made of 
any cabinet wood. For our own purpose in 
teaching the use of an oil finish we will make it 
of some hard and dark-colored wood such as rose- 
wood or black walnut. 



WOOD FINISHING 45 

Oil Finishing. The wood should be prepared 
in the same manner as for other finishes. Take 
linseed oil, either the raw or boiled, and coat the 
rack thoroly. Were many to be finished they 
might be dipped in the oil and then tilted up to 
drain and dry. After becoming partially dry the 
entire surfaces should be thoroly rubbed. If this 
does not result in a sufficient amount of finish an- 
other coat of oil may be applied and similarly 
rubbed. The more rubbing the better. 

Difference in Oils. The boiled oil dries a 
little quicker than the raw oil. Either may re- 
ceive a little drier. Probably the raw oil will 
give the better surface if one is willing to apply a 
sufficient number of coatings and do enough rub- 
bing. Oil finish must not be confused with 
''hard oil" finish which is really a kind of varnish. 

Where Used. Oil finish may be used on any 
project but is not as desirable for large pieces as 
for small ones because it does not protect the 
wood from the effects of heat and moisture as 
well as a shellac finish or a good varnish. 

FINISHING BOOK TROUGH 

Where Wax Finish is Used. We have in the 
book trough, (Fig. 241, ''woodwork for the 
GRADES,") an article well suited to a wax finish. 
Wax finishes may be used on almost any piece of 

4 



46 WOOD FINISHING 

hard wood furniture, but are better for some 
styles than for others. 

Preparing Surface. The surface for a wax fin- 
ish should be prepared in the same manner as for 
other finishes altho it is not likely that small im- 
perfections of material or w^orkmanship will be as 
noticeable in a wax finish as in a varnish finish. 
Various Methods of Wax Finishing. Several 
methods of using the wax may be followed de- 
pending upon what grade of finish is desired. The 
wax may be used directly on the wood without 
stain, filler or any under coating whatever. It 
also may be used over a carefully filled and 
stained surface. Open-grained woods may be 
thoroly prepared as if for varnishing, so that the 
wax will form an even and glossy polish. 

Applying Wax Finish. However the surface is 
prepared, the wax, which may be a common floor 
wax, is rubbed on and then thoroly rubbed down. 
Some w^ax preparations are in liquid form and 
may be applied with a brush. They also differ in 
color. On dark, open-grained wood use a dark- 
colored wax. There is little danger of having any 
trouble in putting on such a finish. It is there- 
fore a very poor finish for school use as a pupil 
may learn nothing worth while tho spending days 
in rubbing it. Wax finish is the extreme opposite 
of a shellac finish as a problem for the school 
shop. 



WOOD FINISHING 47 



FINISHING WASTE PAPER BASKET 

Suitable for Varnish. We may take as a suit- 
able example for a varnish finish the waste paper 
basket, (Fig. 281 ''woodwork for the grades.") 
As dust is very injurious to varnish we will need 
in our school varnishing to apply it to some ob- 
ject small enough to be quickly placed into a 
clean case or box. 

Preparing Wood. For our varnishing lesson 
we will use mahogany for the staves of the bask- 
et. They must be very carefully planed and 
sandpapered. We have already seen how the 
grain of the wood is raised by applying some 
kinds of finish. If we wish to do an exceptionally 
fine piece of work we must raise the grain and 
then smooth it by another sandpapering before 
we apply any finish. 

Raising the Grain. This is accomxplished by 
sponging the surface with warm water. Some 
use the merest trace of glue in the water. This, 
however, is not necessary unless the fibres of the 
wood are inclined to tear up or become fuzzy. 
In that case the glue tends to harden them so 
that they will work smoother. The water must 
not contain sufficient glue to leave any percept- 
ible trace on the surface, for it would affect the 
succeeding coatings. In the use of some spirit 
stains the use of any glue whatever will affect the 



48 WOOD FINISHING 

finish. Be careful to use but moisture enough to 
wet the surface. Dry it thoroly and then rub 
down with sandpaper to a perfect surface. It 
should seem even smoother than before sponging. 

Filling for Varnishing. The surface is now 
ready to proceed with the finishing. If an open 
grain, as would be the case with mahogany, it 
should be filled with a paste filler. See ''finish- 
ing BREAD BOARD." It may also be stained and 
after the staining it may be finished by shellac- 
ing. In this case we are to use varnish and 
therefore we should use but one coat of shellac 
and then use the varnish. We may omit even 
one coat of shellac, using instead some prepar- 
ation that will form a suitable basis for the first 
coat of varnish. There are many preparations on 
the market for this use. They may all be classed 
as liquid fillers. Their use is required because 
two things are necessary in preparing the surface 
of wood for varnish. The surface should be 
smooth. It also should be capable of holding the 
varnish out. Open-grained woods are filled with 
paste filler to give a smooth surface the same as 
the close or even-grained woods. 

Purpose of Liquid Filler. Should a coat of 
varnish be applied to such a surface a large pro- 
portion of it would sink into the wood. In some 
spots it would stay out, thus making a very un- 
even surface and requiring a large amount of 



WOOD FINISHING 49 

labor to prepare it for the next coat. To avoid 
this condition the paste filler or the smoothed 
surface of the close grained wood is given a coat 
of liquid filler. Such a preparation should close 
the minute pores, so that the succeeding coats 
will not settle into the wood, and should be read- 
ily smoothed. 

Shellac when used as a first coater over a 
paste filler or for the first coat on a close-grained 
wood to be followed by varnish may be called a 
liquid filler and is quite as serviceable as any that 
can be obtained. It is much more expensive 
than some liquid fillers and because of price is 
often displaced. 

Kinds of Liquid Fillers. There are a great 
many sorts of liquid fillers on the market. The 
large variety is no doubt due to attempts to pro- 
duce a liquid filler equal to shellac but at less ex- 
pense. In the commercial shop these other prep- 
arations are no doubt to be preferred in most 
cases. For the school shop shellac only is suffi- 
cient except over certain patent stains that, be- 
cause of their special composition, require a 
special filler over them. In purchasing a stain 
always make inquiry in regard to the other prep- 
arations to be used with it. 

After the liquid filler has become dry and 
been thoroly smoothed with sandpaper it is ready 
to be varnished. 



50 WOOD FINISHING 

Trouble From Dust. There is one insurmount- 
able difficulty in most schools to the doing of 
good varnishing. This is the lack of a dustless 
room. It is therefore necessary to confine this 
work to the quick drying varnishes. These are 
not usually the best and most durable, yet the 
general method of use is such that when one has 
learned to apply and finish these quick-drying 
varnishes one should have little difficulty in using 
any varnish, if conditions are favorable. 

VARNISHING 

When to Use Varnish. In no case should the 
use of varnish precede that of shellac. This is 
not because shellac is easier to apply, but be- 
cause it is the better material to use in teaching 
the fundamentals of finishing and varnishing. 
Experience has shown that pupils will readily do 
varnishing after having used shellac. 

Shellacing and Varnishing Compared. The 
essential difference between shellacing and var- 
nishing is that the varnish, being slower drying, 
can be gone over several times if necessary. It 
also may be put on in an excessively thick coat- 
ing and then taken up by going over a second 
time, thus insuring a full coating on all parts. 
Often it is better to apply the varnish across the 
grain, then parallel with the grain, and finish b}^ 



WOOD FINISHING 51 

going over it very systematically, wiping up with 
the brush all excess. Each time the brush is 
raised in wiping up, it should be wiped across the 
wire of the varnish can. 

Varnishing First Side. In the main the appli- 
cation of varnish is the same as that of shellac. 
Therefore review carefully the directions for shel- 
lacing the cutting board. Place a stick in a 
screw hole of one of the sides of the waste paper 
basket and varnish the edges and one surface. 
Place the piece at once in a case away from dust. 

Varnishing Second Side. After this side is 
dry enough to handle, varnish the other side. 
When dry enough to work, sandpaper down care- 
fully and apply another coat. Continue varnish- 
ing and rubbing down the same as in shellacing 
except that two or three coats should be suffi- 
cient to give an excellent finish. 

Covering Varnished Work. Varnish may be 
used on a great variety of w^ork, altho carvings 
and intricate shapes can be better finished in 
shellac. As in shellacing, all corners must be 
worked carefull}^ to avoid '' crying" or thick spots. 
If the piece must dry in the shop room, cover it 
at once with a heavy, clean paper, held off the 
surface, but close enough to exclude dust. Cov- 
ers may be made for this purpose of heavy wrap- 
ping paper, building paper or tag board. When 
not in use they will fold up flat. 



52 WOOD FINISHING 

WHERE TO GET MATERIALS 

Best Place. The best place at which to buy 
anything is of your local dealer, providing he has 
the article that you need and sells it at a reason- 
able price. Sometimes local dealers persist in 
keeping only such lines as are entirely unsuitable 
for school shop work. 

Securing List of Materials. If you are un- 
able to get suitable materials in your local mar- 
ket, or are in doubt as to what makes or grades 
to purchase, the publishers of this book will send 
you a list of materials and addresses of firms of 
whom they may be purchased, providing twenty 
cents in postal money order or stamps is en- 
closed with your inquiry, or if an order for books 
to the amount of one dollar or more is sent with 
cash remittance no charge will be made for ad- 
vice and lists of materials. 

In writing be sure to tell exactly for what the 
materials are wanted. We should know the kinds 
and amounts of wood you are using, the number 
of pupils in each grade and also whether your 
room is well lighted and well heated. 



WOOD FINISHING 53 

\ INDEX 

\ PAGE 

Black Shellac ------ 41 

Black Walnut ----- 44 

Book Rack, — Finishing - - - - 44 

Book Trough ------ 45 

Bread Board - - _ _ _ 32, 41 

Classes of Woods ----- 13 

Cold Water Putty - - - - - 15 

Coloring Fillers ----- 35 

Coloring Putty ------ 15 

Cutting Board ----- IQ 

Defects, — Removing ----- 14 

Depends on Previous Work - - - 9 

Dust --------50 

Edges, — Shellacing ----- 21 

Educational Value of Finishing - - 7 
Fillers ------ 33, 49 

Filling Grain ------ 33 

Fir ------- - 31 

Fool Proof Finishes - - - - - 11 

Fundamentals in Finishing - - - 8 

Grinding Finish - - - - - 26, 29 

Habits ------- 8 

Holding Piece ------ 20 

Linseed Oil ----- 14, 35 

Mahogany - - - - - - 32, 47 

Materials, — Where to Buy - - - 52 
Number of Coats - - - - - 30 



54 WOOD FINISHING 

Oak -------- 32 

Oil Finish ------- 45 

Oil, — Rubbing ------ 27 

Pine, — Preparing - - - - - 13 

Preparation Necessary - - - - 10 

Preparation of Woods - - - - 13 

Pumice Stone - - - - - - 26, 28 

Putty --------14 

Raising Grain ------ 47 

Rosewood -------44 

rottenstone ------ 42 

Rubbing Oil -------27 

Sandpapering Finish - - 23, 25, 33, 39 

Sawdust and Glue - - - - - 14 

Scraping Finish ----- 24 

Shellac - - - - - - 12, 16 

Shellacing - - - - - 18, 26, 50 

Smoothing Wood - - - - 13, 16, 31 

Spruce and Fir ----- 31 

Staining Over Filler - - - - - 37 

Stains ------ 38, 41 

Suitable Piece - - - - - - 11 

Taboret, — Finishing _ _ _ - 43 

True Surface - - - - ~ - 10 

Varnishing ------ 50 

Waste Paper Basket - - - - - 47 

Wax Finish ------ 46 

Whiting ------- 14 

Why Do Finishing ----- 7 



WOOD FINISHING 55 

WOODWORK FOR THE GRADES 

This is the book usually referred to in Wood 
Finishing. It is the book for the beginner in us- 
ing tools, no matter in what grade. Being very 
complete in both text and illustrations it is there- 
fore an exceptional book for the home mechanic, 
or the boy who has a few tools and wishes to 
learn to use them correctly. With this book at 
hand the parent, tho not a mechanic, should be 
able to interest and direct the young mechanic to 
such an extent as to result in first class work and 
also in learning much of value about tools and 
their correct use. 

The mechanical drawings are arranged and 
graded with great care so that the average boy 
will, in using the book, learn to read drawings 
without any special effort. There are complete 
working drawings of a large number of projects 
from simple one-piece projects such as shelves, 
cutting boards, etc., to chairs, tables and screens. 
The variety of designs in foot-stools, taborets and 
bookracks is sufficient to afford work for the boy 
beginner as well as problems sufficiently complex 
for the grown-up. The book is meeting with 
exceptional success in both school and home. 

WOODWORK FOR THE GRADES, will be 
sent by mail prepaid to any address on receipt of 
one dollar. 

THE MAUD SLAY PRESS 
Valley City, _ - _ North Dakota. 



56 WOOD FINISHING 

THE MECHANICAL SCIENCE SERIES 

This series of texts presents the work of the 
school shop as a definite science rather than as 
tool processes or methods of making things. The 
entire course is arranged in definite divisions with 
each division arranged according to a definite and 
logical sequence based on the demonstration of 
the fundamental principles of working solid ma- 
terials. Altho this restricts the course to very 
definite portions of subject matter, yet this sub- 
ject matter may be studied and the necessary 
demonstrations made by use of a great variety of 
materials and projects. This variety is largely 
provided for by many suggestions in the texts as 
to modifications of designs, using of different 
woods and various methods of finishing. 

The important and especially interesting fact 
in regard to the MECHANICAL SCIENCE 
SERIES is that its proper use invariably yields 
results far beyond that of any other line of school 
shopwork. It not only results in a greater in- 
terest and far better executed projects, but also 
yields a value in preparing for industrial occu- 
pations that has not been approached by any 
other line of school shopwork. 

For complete information in regard to these 
texts, address, 

THE MAUDSLAY PRESS 
Valley City, _ _ - - North Dakota 



